Opening of the Museum of Contemporary Art in tehran

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The shah laughed in disbelief when he was told the liquid was oil, and stuck his arm into the canister – only to pull it out, soiled and oozing black oil. Someone snapped a picture, but within seconds, the notorious Savak secret police had confiscated every roll of film taken that night.

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The history of modern Iran, particularly the early 20th century, is intertwined with the life …