Today the neon-lit alleys running down to the beach are much quieter than usual. The bars in the city’s famous Walking Street still screen videos on their walls of pole-dancing women, trying to lure customers inside. But there are not many of those customers, and most seem to be family groups from the Middle East more interested in the Turkish ice-cream vendor than the go-go bars.
The Iran War, which has affected tourism and consumer spending, has hit businesses hard here. The prospect of thousands of American sailors, with nine months of salary unspent while at sea, offers a rare opportunity to local businesses.