A little over a year ago, Carlos Gasperi, a sommelier and a former scholar of German literature who had been doing rotating dinners, found a somewhat more permanent space in SoHo for his dinner series with various chefs, notably Brendan Skibar. Now in a high-end kitchen counter setting in Brooklyn that had been the Chef’s Table at Brooklyn Fare, but now redone, the executive chef, Michael Brogan, who worked at the Modern and Momofuku Ko in New York and the Fat Duck in England, presents a nine-course tasting menu for $198.