Where cows, pigs and politicians strut their stuff

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The Salon is not only a huge attraction for families who swarm the enormous expo centre that is turned into a mega-farm this time every year to see animals they would never encounter in the city: It is also an annual rite of passage for French presidents and leaders from across the political spectrum.

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The evening of Monday, December 17, 1404, marked one of the most solemn and heartbreaking …